To fashion guru’s and the readers of almost every fashion magazine to date, he is simply known as Patrick. He is a man that needs no introduction; he has already paved a steep path in the world of fashion photography. Patrick Demarchelier was born in Paris in 1943. It was not until his seventeenth birthday that he received his first camera that the rest of his life happened before his eyes. His uncle had given him an Eastman Kodak camera, and he instantly fell in love with the art. His passion lead him to a full time job in a photo lab in Paris printing and retouching passport photos. Demarchelier then moved to New York in 1975 to pursue his photography passion and not before long he found himself immersed in the realm of fashion. He began at the bottom of the food chain at the beck and call of other photographers. After eventually moving up to working as an assistant and developing his skills, Demarchelier finally began his own shoots. His formal education he claims to have received from “the school of life”, because experience is everything. Demarchelier says that “being a photographer is like being an athlete, you have to practice everyday.” Following the inspiration of such photographers as Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton and Irving Penn, Demarchelier had much to prove and prove he did! He has had the honor of shooting campaigns for Louis Vuitton, Yves St Laurent and Vogue magazine; just to name a few. In fact, he is Harper Bazaars premier photographer since 1992 (the previous fifteen years spent at Vogue), shooting covers many times again for almost every magazine on the market.
The constantly changing technological era made it difficult for modern artists to keep up. Demarchelier chooses to shoot with his Hasselblad and Zeiss lenses simply because they “fit like a glove”. Yes the incomparable quality, construction and simplicity is definitely a crowd pleaser, but Demarchellier claims, “it’s a feeling, the way it feels in your hand is impeccable”. With the progress of technology, he has managed to preserve the classic look of black and white photographs with his subjects. He is primarily a portrait photographer and extremely talented in this area. Demarchelier mastered the play of light versus shadow. The contrasts in his photographs accentuate a very visible difference between the highlights and the darkest pieces.
He has given the world dynamic photos with depth and soul blaring through them. Many of the shoots he has done for Vogue such as “Suives le Star” (‘04/’05) appearing in French Vogue, emphasize his love for bold contrasts in a photo.
Yet some of his work such as “Princess Diana in London” (1990) uses techniques to produce a softer lighting.
The majority of Demarchelier’s work is portraiture and specifically female. He especially loves working with nude models to show the simplicity and beauty of the female form. Every detail inside his compositional choices are cleverly thought out to enhance the black and white concept. Whether it is the simplicity of a nude model (“pool nudes 1”),
to black and white costumes (“Erin O’Connor 1998”),
each plays a role to enhance his photographic skills. This easily allows the viewer to focus on the tones and contrasts versus the subject itself.
In a grander scale it is safe to assume that many of Demarchelier’s photographs begin to look very similar. He plays favorites with his women in tightly cropped frames. He especially prefers shooting in and producing images in square format. Demarchelier believes that the square is the most natural and easy form to view. It is within those four lines he manages to master elegance and creativity.
Demarchelier has stated many times that the key to his success is hand holding his camera versus the use of a tripod. He believes it allows him the freedom of spontaneity and an increased reaction and response to his subject. As his subject is predominantly people, he believes it is the relationship we create with one another that establishes moments; moments to be photographed into magic.
The magic Demarchelier manages to capture has imprinted on our world forever. I can’t find a Vogue in my closet that doesn’t have a bit of Demarchelier inside its pages. Besides my love affair with fashion and consumption with fashion photography, it was the dramatic contrasts that drew me in. The black and white concept is very classic and seen as “simple”, however the strength in his composition, highlights and shadows leaves the onlooker to realize it is anything but. Demarchelier has a way to capture the light as if he spent a lifetime on an oil canvas. All his photos appeal to me with such a depth that evokes more than my passion for fashion, but my passion for photography. One of my personal favorite photographs, “Angelina with Cigarette, 1999”, would not be the same without his impeccable technique.
The photograph is edgy yet soft and beautiful, the perfect contrast in subject as well as lighting in the picture as a whole.
Patrick Demarchelier remains one of the greatest fashion and portrait photographers to date. You still can’t pick up a Vogue today without finding a hint of Demarchelier within the pages. He is actively living his life through the lens of his camera and the love of his family in New York City. “Photography is a physical activity”, says Demarchelier when asked what his advice to young photographers is. He advocates to “take pictures, take pictures, and take pictures!” It’s the only way to learn and develop skill. It is the dream of a lifestyle and the lifestyle of a dream. Hard work, dedication and practice make the avid photographer who he is. And if you get lucky and prove yourself to the world, you might find yourself along side the genius himself; shooting Vogue covers with Patrick Demarchelier.
This week, Patrick Demarchelier appeared on America's Next Top Model to shoot the girls.
Here is a clip of Patrick in action and on the set!
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